In the 32 agencies, I’ve now put one room that has been set aside for the atelier. “I have 32 agencies around the world,” Haart added, speaking rapidly. She wanted to eradicate body-shaming-of which she’d seen plenty, working in the modeling industry. “It makes the runway very easy.” She meant not just to find models in general, but models she felt best encapsulated the brand, which initially blossomed from her frustrations with the fashion industry. “It’s very nice owning a modeling agency,” Haart said of the casting, laughing. (While the rest of fashion is in a frenzy for “sustainability,” Haart’s show presented the “go big or go home” mentality, despite brand messaging that states an effort for a reduced carbon footprint.) “Thanks to this sexy lady,” she said, holding hands with, and twirling, Haart, whose elaborate skin-tight sequin bodysuit fit right in with the show’s high-production value. Even rarer was the fact that showgoers occasionally cheered-though who couldn’t, in the presence of the runway’s most high-energy model, Miss Fame? The same goes for Bebe Rexha, who made a surprise appearance and strutted up and down the runway with glee. Here’s what they found: Adut Akech leading a parade of models down a concrete runway, against the backdrop of vibrant walls freshly graffitied with inspirational phrases like “MORE THAN ONE WAY TO SUCCEED,” “WORK IT,” and “BE YOUR OWN ICON.” Established models like Isabeli Fontana, Lais Ribiero, and Cindy Bruna soon followed, as did Lindsey Wixson-a rare sight on the runway, given that the beloved model “retired” at age 23 in 2017-followed suit. “I mean, everybody was a little intrigued to see what it was.” “Everybody” included front-row guests Tommy Dorfman, Ashley Benson, and head of the CFDA Steven Kolb (who chose e1972 over the CFDA-backed Laquan Smith show just a few blocks away). “I was really interested and intrigued,” Cody Simpson said backstage. Unsurprisingly, then, before the lights dimmed at e1972’s debut runway show on Saturday night, no one seemed to know what to expect. Last year, she mentioned that a fashion brand called e1972-a nod to the year the agency was founded-would be part of it all, but cryptically left it at that. (Elite Model World, Women Model Management, The Society Management, and Women 360 are just a handful of the powerhouse agencies Elite oversees.) Haart, who was previously the creative director at La Perla, vowed she would create new avenues of growth for the company. When Haart was appointed to the helm of Elite in March of 2019, she promised to build up the company even further-quite the lofty goal, given that it was already the world’s largest network of modeling agencies. Of all seasons, then, this one couldn’t be better for what’s arguably the least likely designer to join the fray: Under the leadership of its relatively new CEO, Julia Haart, Elite World Group-the international modeling agency which represents Kendall Jenner, Adriana Lima, and Irina Shayk-now has its own fashion label, known as e1972. If there’s one perk of the New York Fashion Week schedule being jarringly bare bones this season, it’s that smaller-scale and up-and-coming labels have the chance to shine.
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